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Post by compsulyx on Mar 13, 2015 17:32:06 GMT -8
Dear Paul,
Coul you forward us your supplier's contact for the cedar oil please ?. I'm interested to buy some and try... My brother in low jut built his house (wooden) and he bought very expensive red cedar tiles from North America (Canada I guess). When I help him to build the roof, I was impressed by the strong smell...nice and very strong one. The red cedar tilings are very hard and given for more than 50 years without any problems. In NA, some houses have the roof built with these red cedar tilings, and have more than 100 years old, with no problem...So I'm not surprised that the cedar oil is so effective on pests... Thanks and regards Thierry
Thierry
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Post by paulbodnar1 on Mar 13, 2015 18:23:43 GMT -8
Here is the link, a pint is about $60-$75 dollars but remember it will be diluted with water when you apply it to your insect collection: www.cedarcide.com/
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Post by paulbodnar1 on Mar 13, 2015 18:24:53 GMT -8
Solution, diluted. Attachments:
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Post by paulbodnar1 on Mar 13, 2015 18:27:37 GMT -8
Nowadays I just add about ten drops on a paper towel, never bothering to open a case, since the solution is water based if you add it to a case, use only 1 drop so no extra humidity becomes an issue. 10 drops on a paper towel lasts about 5-6 months to kill pests. Attachments:
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Post by compsulyx on Mar 14, 2015 2:50:43 GMT -8
Many thanks Paul. Do you store the diluted oil at room temperature or in the fridge ?. And how long the product can be stored ?. Thanks again for sharing tips Thierry
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Post by compsulyx on Mar 14, 2015 3:24:20 GMT -8
Another question Paul....which reference do you buy to Cedarcide, the PCO one ?... Thanks Thierry
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Post by jildertraul on Mar 14, 2015 4:05:16 GMT -8
Hello Paul,
Maybe a stupid question, but do you put the paper with some drops on the top (so above the glass) of your collection as on the picture you have attached?
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Post by paulbodnar1 on Mar 14, 2015 14:04:00 GMT -8
1) Store the diluted cedar oil solution in a glass jar (I use ice tea jars) at room temperature in a closet. It will last several years even in diluted form, about 1:25 oil ration to water. I made up my solution about two years ago. Just shake once in a while like before you open the jar to avoid a natural slight separation.
2) Yes I place ten drops on the paper towel and place that on top of the glass case. That's it, super simple.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2015 16:06:44 GMT -8
Hi All,
First, know that I have been using and testing Cedar Oil for the better part of ten years. I have posted many times about it here in the past. I absolutely love using it, but I have to say while it does indeed repell dermestids,it does not, I repeat does not, kill dermestids. It is proven highly effective at repelling as it has not allowed one dermestid into my collection since I started using it.
If you would like a further read on it, find/google garthesinsectgradebook. Note that I would provide a link, but apparently am barred from listing a link to a free website.....sorry.
It is imperative that one is positive no pests are in a specimen being put into the drawer. I have tried to see if it kills and it has not for me. When I put some drops on one side of an experimental cigar box with both junker specimens and live dermestids, all that happened was the live dermestids were the farthest away from the side with the drops when I later checked. I firmly believe that no dermestid will willingly enter a drawer having the Cedar Oil.
Paul is correct to state that the solution you get from a supplier has to be diluted. One might 'think' that he/she should use it at 100% for more power, but it does not work that way. The thinner diluted liquid is much better at spreading the fumes and 100% non-diluted Cedar Oil will not. My information at the link is from the actual manufacturer and he also said that using a material like cotton, cork, or other high-surface area platform works best for distribution of the fumes. One quart bottle will last many many years with the dilution.
Any fumes of cedar you might smell are nice, but the ones we smell are not the particular oils that repel the pests. The Cedar Oil sold is actually made up of four oils. The ones we can't smell actually do the repelling.
Respectfully,
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2015 16:31:55 GMT -8
Oops, I forgot to mention.....since this thread has had several pest killing posts.......that every other year or so I put a square cm piece of Vapona in to kill any pests that might have accidentky gotten in with a newly added specimen. Vapona for me has been terrific as a killing agent.
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Post by paulbodnar1 on Mar 14, 2015 20:40:48 GMT -8
Hi Bill, First I'd like to thank you for your insight and support. I would like to share this experience, I use the cedar oil at a more concentrated ratio at about 1:15 or 1:20 ounces per water. I DO observe and have tested it to actually kill the dermestids. Method used: I have had butterflies sent with live pests chewing away at the bodies and wings. Often heart broken that I spent good money but someone has sent "crap". I place the infected papered specimens in a plastic shoebox on 2 or 3 dry paper towels and apply 4-5 drops of solution at my stronger concentration (looks like 2% milk). Within 5-6 hours I observe the pests are dead. I then proceed to quarantine new arrivals over night in the shoebox, opened in the next morning all have died. It can kill many (some boxes literally have had 100+ little bugs chewing on precious specimens). Along with the nice cabinets Tom made, I have many birdwings stored in cheaper glass and vinyl cases (not airtight), I don't even bother opening them up to place a drop on a cork square, simply I place a paper towel on the open portion of the glass, using a dropper place about ten drops on the paper towel then stack the next case on and repeat, usually 6-8 cases get stacked. The weaker concentration I agree is a deterrent, but at the strength and amount I have used over the years, I can 100% give my testimony is does kill every single one of them within hours. Truly, Paul Bodnar Attachments:
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Post by jildertraul on Mar 16, 2015 2:59:28 GMT -8
Dear Paul,
Can you place a link to the stuff you are using?
Many thanks, Jildert
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steve
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Post by steve on Mar 16, 2015 16:39:04 GMT -8
Why not just freeze them?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2015 19:36:15 GMT -8
Why not just freeze them? I guess putting all my drawers into freezers would be too daunting a task that would take a long time. Then, after getting done, I'd be starting over again. With what I do, I have not a worry, but I do check to be sure. Paul, I have been into this cedar stuff for while and I think I even played a part in your using it. I have, for years, elected to go with the recommendations of the manufacturer. You have taken this to another level I'm likely to explore. I'm glad you are satisfied with your system and if I can confirm your results, I will surely say so. My drawers are in open cabinets which pose a bit of a problem, but I'll monkey around with it.
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Post by compsulyx on Mar 16, 2015 20:49:57 GMT -8
Dear Paul, Can you tell us which stuff your are using ?....Which reference ?...I've asked but I had no answer from you. Is it the PCO ... Thanks and regards. Thierry
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